ON THE ROAD — South of Kulgera Roadhouse the temperature is heading past 40 degrees centigrade. A road train loaded with fuel for the north looks pixelated from the heat shimmer as it “drives through” a midday mirage. Across the gibber plains to the west the Ghan freight train pulls more than 30 railcars north towards Darwin. From Adelaide to the end of the line at Darwin is just over 3000km. The Ghan is named after the Afghan cameleers who arrived in Central Australia in the late nineteenth century. Feral camels now roam the desert. Some are caught and exported to the Middle East. Australia’s feral camels are highly regarded in their ancestral home.